A silver Vauxhall VX220 on track
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Reference

Parts and part numbers by guide

Every parts list in our guides in one place, grouped by category and guide: the parts and part numbers quoted from the parts catalogue (EPC), the factory manual (TIS) and owners, with the notes that go with them. Built from the guides, so it updates when they do.

vx220.info/guides/parts-and-part-numbers-by-guide · Last updated 31 October 2026

Applies to: VX220 and Speedster, NA, Turbo, SuperchargedDifficulty: EasyTime: Reading guide

This page is built from the parts lists at the top of each guide (466 entries from 135 guides). Part numbers come from the Vauxhall parts catalogue (EPC) and from owners, and the note beside each one says which. Numbers and prices change, and the same part can have different numbers for the NA, Turbo and Speedster, so check with your own parts counter before you order. A part that appears in the text of a guide but not in its parts list is not here, so use the site search as well.

Jump to: Body · Brakes · Cooling · Drivetrain · Electrical · Engine · Exhaust · Fuel · Interior · Reference · Servicing · Steering · Supercharger · Suspension · Troubleshooting · Turbo · Wheels and tyres

Body

Bonnet release: loose lever, stuck catch and a better pull

  • Replacement bonnet release cable (for relocating the pull). One owner used a first-generation Land Rover Discovery bonnet release cable, for under £6 in 2020. We haven’t checked the fit ourselves
  • Steel bracket, about 20 x 60 mm and 3 mm thick, with two holes. Made by the same owner to carry the new pull. It needs to be stiff so there is no flex
  • M8 bolt about 20 mm long and a nut. Used to fix the bracket to the door hinge bracket
  • Cable ties. To hold the new cable in place. A cable tie round the old handle bracket is also the cheapest fix for a handle that keeps coming out

Crashbox replacement: removing the old one, adhesive and which to buy

  • Crashbox (front crash structure). Made by Lotus only. The same part number is listed for the NA and Turbo. A used one is much cheaper than new but check it carefully (see below)
  • Structural PU adhesive and the matching primer. Owners named Betaseal. One said the 1701 in the Lotus repair notes had been superseded by 1580, with primer 5404, but that is one owner's account, so check the current numbers with your supplier
  • Rivets for the side gussets. The factory steps drill the old rivets out and re-rivet the gussets (see the factory guide)
  • Towing bracket for an Elise S2 version. Only if fitting an Elise S2 crashbox. One owner changed his bracket to the S2 type

Door key barrel: stiff, frozen or failed, and how to remove it

  • Door lock (latch) right 9197144 / left 9197145, with six M6 x 12 screws 9197148 and shakeproof washers 9198110. Parts catalogue (EPC)
  • Connecting rod, lock barrel to spindle: 9197153 (one per door). Clamps 90120387 (three per door). EPC
  • Connecting rod, door lock to release lever: 9197894. EPC. Replaces 9197205, which is no longer supplied
  • Release lever 9197132, spiral pin 9197147, spring washer 9198009. EPC
  • Lock release spindle, right 9197156 / left 9197157, with spindle bearings 9197146. EPC
  • Lock access hole cover plate 9198184, blanking grommet 9197128. EPC. Turbo cars with central locking use cover 93177624 over the key hole
  • Replacement lock barrel. The barrel isn’t in the parts catalogue lock list and the threads don’t give a part number. One owner who couldn’t see how to remove his chose a temporary bodge instead, and said he would replace it when he had the courage

Front clam removal

  • Copper grease (copper ease). Recommended on reassembly, and a chance to grease the bolts

Fuel filler surround: removing it and dealing with spinning bolts

  • Replacement bolts for the surround. Stainless was the owners' choice. The nuts are ordinary M6, so the bolts are M6
  • Cork gasket under the surround. One owner quoted 9198183. That comes from the thread and has not been checked against the parts catalogue
  • 6 mm alloy rivnuts (optional). One owner's way of refitting the surround when the captive nuts were gone

Hard top fitting

  • Hard top fixing brackets, front (right 93179068, left 93179067). Items 3 and 4 on the diagram. Riveted to the hard top (4 rivets, 93179079)
  • Hard top fixing brackets, rear (right 93179070, left 93179069). Items 5 and 6. Held to the hard top with M6 x 16 screws (93179076, 8 in all) and 6 x 12 washers (93179077)
  • Rear latch assembly (left 93179072, right 93179073). Items 8 and 7. The right-hand latch is listed as no longer supplied, with no replacement part
  • Front bracket retaining pin (93179075, 2 off). Item 9. Fixed with a bolt (93179078) and washer (9197753)
  • Rear trim covers for the fixing brackets (right 93180197, left 93180198). Items 16 and 17
  • Header rail seals. Front and rear 9197701. The side seals 9197699 (right) and 9197698 (left) are no longer supplied: use 9197902 (right) and 9197901 (left)
  • Front header clamp plate (93181840). Item 21. Held by 3 Torx M8 x 20 screws (93181842), with spacers (93181841), retainer nuts (93181843) and M8 washers (9197753)
  • Sealing tape. Only if you cut the door water deflector to adjust the window

Hard tops: buying, seals and everyday use

  • Hard top seals. Not available new as far as we know. Owners said the later Turbo seals can be fitted to an NA, and that Elise S2 seals fit
  • Hard top rear cover x2 and front cover x1. Not sold new. Very hard to find separately, so buy a top that still has them
  • Plastic rear roof brackets (cant rail brackets). One owner said early cars with aluminium brackets need the later plastic ones for the top to seat. Check availability before you rely on it

Plastic sill cover removal, cracks, repair and protectors

  • Replacement plastic sill cover. Only available second-hand now, from breakers. A 2006 post quoted about £35 from a breaker
  • Double-sided tape, green-backed, or Velcro, to refit. See refitting below
  • Plastic-weld or flexible plastic repair adhesive, for cracks. One owner preferred a pipe-weld type to superglue for soft plastic

Rattling window cure

  • Self-adhesive mini trunking (cable conduit). Owners used 10 x 16 mm, or 15 mm wide. 2 m is enough for four windows
  • White spirit, to clean the rail
  • A couple of stainless M5 x 12 screws. For the top of the guide rail, in case the old one rounds off

Rear clam removal

  • Replacement fixings, as needed. Several owners had boot bolts, roll bar cover bolts or fuel surround nuts shear or spin. Stainless fixing kits for both clams are on eBay, and so are threaded flanged rivet captive nuts for the boot bolts
  • Copper grease. For refitting the bolts

Sill damage: repair or replace

  • Replacement sill: second-hand, or a reproduction from a supplier such as MVS. One owner found a reproduction needed a lot of fettling to fit. Lamination quality was reported as fine, but the edges need finishing
  • Polyurethane sealant/adhesive, to bond the sill. One owner mentioned Sikaflex getting everywhere. Not checked against any specification

Soft top cable replacement

  • Replacement soft top cable. Front and rear are separate cables. New original cables are no longer available: EliseParts sells a replacement for about £68, and they are slightly cheaper on eBay. Don’t drive on a snapped front cable: see the warning below
  • Strong duct tape, or string / para-cord / a coat hanger. For pulling the new cable through the hood
  • Fabric glue. To re-stick the flap of fabric you peel back. The type isn’t stated

Soft top cleaning, proofing and recolouring

  • Fabric hood cleaner. Autoglym and Renovo cleaners were the most recommended. Others used: Aerospace 303 (cleaner and protector), Meguiar’s all purpose cleaner, Nanolex, and Halfords soft top cleaner
  • Fabric proofer. Fabsil, Renovo Ultra Proofer, Autoglym proofer, Nikwax tent proofer (diluted)
  • Renovo reviver (dye), if recolouring. Comes in black, blue and other colours

Soft top trim repair: seal rubber, side padding and spigot caps

  • Black sikaflex-type sealant. The author used a black polyurethane sealant from B&Q, the black version of the white waterproof rubbery sealant. It rebuilt missing rubber and stuck the loose clips
  • Superglue. Run into the cracks of split pad corners
  • Fibreglass tissue and epoxy resin. To reinforce the split corners. He guessed polyester resin might dissolve the foam, so used epoxy
  • HDPE tube, 6 mm internal / 8 mm external diameter. For new spigot caps, cut and filed to size

Undertrays: removing and refitting

  • Stainless steel bolts, C-clips and washers for the undertray. Two owners said to replace them with stainless while the tray is off, because the steel ones corrode in the aluminium. For the smaller fixings, owners in 2014 listed M5 bolts (16 mm, though one said 20 to 25 mm), a C-clip each, and an M5 penny washer. A nylon washer between the penny washer and the tray stops the bolt corroding into it. Speedy Fasteners sells a complete stainless kit (see below)

Wheel arches: liners, rusted fixings, tyre rubbing and extensions

  • Front wheel arch liner, right and left. A Vauxhall dealer quoted 9197280 (right) and 9197274 (left) in 2017 at £156.00 plus VAT each. The right was in stock in the UK and the left in Germany. The owner said the price had risen a lot. Check the numbers and price with your own parts counter.
  • M5 well nuts or jack nuts, stainless bolts and washers. Owners used these in place of the original rusted fixings. See the section on rusted screws.

Windscreen replacement: black surround, heated screens and getting it fitted

  • Replacement windscreen, black surround (Elise S2 / Exige style). The same glass fits the VX220, Speedster and Elise S2 according to owners (2012, 2013, 2018). Silver-surround screens are no longer made
  • Heated screen (aftermarket), glass only. £250 plus VAT in 2018 (£300 in 2016), screen only, without the surround

Windscreen surround: wrapping it in vinyl

  • Vinyl, about 1.5 m x 600 mm. The 2011 guide said less than £5. Owners paid £5 to £10 in 2011. Cast or wrapping film stretches better
  • Sharp craft knife or scalpel
  • Spray bottle with water and two drops of washing-up liquid
  • Application sponge, or a credit card wrapped in a soft cloth
  • Hair dryer
  • Masking tape. To hold the vinyl in place on the wing mirrors while you work
  • Degreaser. An owner in 2011 added this

Windscreen washer upgrade: spray bars and wash-wipe blades

  • Clip-on spray bar: Citroën BX rear wiper washer. Citroën part numbers N93780 and 95 495 714 were both quoted in 2006, and a Peugeot 405 bar was 643861 in 2004. Check before you order
  • Or a wash-wipe blade: Valeo VM15 (Renault Espace, 1991 to 1996). 24 inch. One owner’s box said it also fits the Opel Movano and a Renault Master. Fits the hook-type arm
  • Washer tubing: 4 mm silicone, black or translucent. Clear PVC goes hard and cracks. About 1 m is enough for a blade with a spray bar
  • T-piece connector. Optional, to keep the original jets working as well
  • Cable ties

Wiper blades and arms: which fits, and the early arm problem

  • Wiper blade, 24 inch (600 mm), for the hook-type arm. Owners used blades listed for the Zafira, Opel Movano and Vivaro, or an Elise S2 blade. Check the fit on your arm
  • Original wiper blade: 9197605 (early cars) or 9198364 (later cars). Parts catalogue (EPC), the same for left and right-hand drive. Change at car number 2N003753 (LHD) or 2N003500 (RHD)
  • Original wiper arm: 9197615 (early cars) or 9198363 (later cars). EPC, split at the same car numbers. Arm cap 9197603
  • Blade mounting set, early arm: 9197282. EPC says this is no longer supplied: use 9198422
  • Elise S2 wiper arm and blade (for the early arm). £25 to £31 from Lotus dealers in 2010 and 2013, and cheaper from one specialist

Brakes

ABS cut-off switch: fitting

  • A switch, ideally with an on/off plate. A key switch is possible, but see the note on keys below
  • Bullet connectors. For a quick, reversible join
  • Insulation tape and cable ties. To wrap the loom again and keep it secure

ABS unit swap: the Lotus 4-channel unit, part numbers and fitting

  • ABS actuator ECU kit, A120J6004S (Lotus). One owner posted the parts diagram listing this as the 4-channel ECU. Another said it is the only part you need, because the rest is already on the car. The label on the unit itself shows S108196012 (and TRW 13091813), not the Lotus number
  • New rubber seals for the module. One owner said to fit the new computer with new rubber seals

Brake and clutch fluid replacement

  • About 2 litres of new brake fluid. The original author used Castrol Response Super DOT 4 (about £11 a litre in 2007), a high-temperature fluid several owners recommend. He bought two litres for a thorough flush
  • A pressure bleeder. Either buy one (an Easybleed or Eezibleed type kit was about £16–20 in 2007) or make your own, see below
  • A spare wheel, if you use an Eezibleed. It is the air supply. The tyre must be at no more than 15 psi (10 is typical), and over 20 psi will damage the Easybleed
  • A syringe (optional). To pull the old fluid out of the reservoir. Brake fluid ruins them, so it will be a one-off. It is a must if the reservoir has black sludge

Brake pad choice: Mintex, Carbone Lorraine, Pagid and others

  • Pads for both axles. Owners say fit front and rear together. Changing only one axle can upset the front-to-rear balance and confuse the ABS
  • Anti-rattle shims. Owners recommend fitting new ones with new pads, especially with the harder pads, which can rattle in the caliper
  • Discs and brake fluid. Owners suggest doing both at the same time. See below

Brake pipes in the sill: corrosion, MOT failure and replacement

  • Hard brake pipe, cut from a roll and flared to suit. Parts 9, 10 and 11 on the rear brake line diagram were reported no longer available new. A motor factor will make a straight length that you bend by hand
  • Braided replacement for the sill run, such as the HEL kit sold for this. Owners disagree on the length. See below
  • Heat sleeve (fire sleeve), conduit or silicone hose. To protect a braided line against the coolant pipe and rubbing
  • Brake fluid, blanking plug for the caliper end, absorbent towel

Brake servo vacuum hose

  • Brake servo vacuum hose, Vauxhall part 93188760. 10 mm ID × 18 mm OD × 3500 mm. The revised hose has a red stripe.
  • Non-return valve, 10 mm. Worth replacing at the same time
  • Cable ties. To refit the hose at its original clip points

Front brake disc replacement

  • Front discs. Most come coated in a thin oil to stop them rusting. Wipe it off before fitting
  • Front brake pads. One owner says that next time he will always do the pads with the discs. See the front pad guide

Front brake pad replacement

  • Front brake pads. One owner fitted Mintex 1144S in 2008 and said they made a big difference. For which pad to choose, see the brake pad choice guide.
  • Replacement clips, if the old ones are damaged

Handbrake cable replacement

  • Replacement handbrake cable set. The author fitted one from Elise Shop. The set is one cable with a crescent-shaped link in the middle. See the note on the P-clip positions below
  • New P-clips (recommended). The old ones are likely to be badly corroded

Rear brake caliper strip-down

  • Refurb kit: piston seal, dust boot and the small O-ring on the handbrake clutch plate. Plus a new piston if yours gets scratched. The author used a refurb bag from Elise Parts and kept some parts it doesn't include, such as the external spring.
  • Rust-penetrating fluid
  • Brake cleaner
  • Bags and labels. For each caliper's parts, kept separate

Rear brake disc replacement

  • Rear discs. Most come coated in a thin oil to stop them rusting. Wipe it off before fitting
  • Rear brake pads. See the rear pad guide
  • Disc retaining screw, M10 countersunk (Vauxhall part no. 90278945), if the old one is damaged. Part number from the rear pad thread

Rear brake pad replacement

  • Rear brake pads. Owners mention Mintex 1144 and EBC Greenstuff (see the brake pad choice guide). The Mintex pads came with rubber shims, and you only transfer the spring clip from the old pads.
  • New pad spring clip, if the old one is damaged
  • Disc retaining screw, M10 countersunk (Vauxhall part no. 90278945), if you replace discs and the old one is damaged
  • Rubber dust seals for the piston, if they are cut or damaged. Replace them immediately if damaged
  • Brake fluid, if you also renew it. The original author suggests it, and bleeding

Cooling

Coolant change and bleeding

  • Coolant. The factory long-life coolant, which owners call red, pink or orange, from a Vauxhall dealer. See “Which coolant”
  • Water. Distilled is said to be safer in the long run, and it depends on the water where you live. Some owners use tap water
  • Antifreeze tester. Cheap, and not very accurate, but it shows whether the mix will cope with winter

Cooling system flush

  • Cooling system flush product. The author used Wynn's, plus a dishwasher tablet
  • Red antifreeze. About 2.7 litres, which the author says is just under 25% of the system
  • Thermostat housing seal. The flat O ring. Don't forget to refit it.

Radiator replacement

  • Replacement radiator. The author chose a high-pressure aluminium Elise radiator from Elise Parts, because the Vauxhall one has plastic end tanks. The Elise one has its mounting holes in slightly different places, but the housing has both sets drilled
  • Coolant and distilled water. One 2009 owner says the system holds about 12 litres, so roughly 6 litres of coolant plus distilled water
  • Stainless fixings (optional). The author bought stainless M6 x 25 mm washers (50), M6 x 16 mm hex bolts (10), M5 x 16 mm hex bolts (20), M5 x 25 mm hex bolts (10), 5 mm C-clips (10) and 6 mm C-clips (10), to replace the rusted originals
  • Rivets, 4 mm, 8 off. To refit the fan to the new radiator. Another owner used bolts and Nyloc nuts instead, with the brackets cleaned and painted

Water pump replacement (2.2 NA)

  • Water pump (GM / Vauxhall part). One owner’s replacement pump came without the rubber seal for the coolant pipe. The seals can normally be reused (one owner’s advice)
  • Coolant. The system has to be drained. See the coolant change guide for refilling and bleeding
  • Thermostat (optional). One owner asked whether to change it at the same time. Nobody gave a firm answer

Drivetrain

Clutch replacement: dropping the gearbox

  • Clutch kit (plate, cover, release bearing). See Clutch choice
  • New clutch slave cylinder. Fit it every time. See below
  • Flywheel, if worn or if you are fitting a lightened one. The labour is the big cost, so many owners do it at the same time
  • Oil-resistant thread lock for the flywheel bolts. See Clutch choice for why
  • Gearbox oil. You have to drain it first

Driveshaft removal and gearbox driveshaft seals

  • Driveshaft nut (use 90105309), washer 93180199 and cotter pin 11010069 (4 x 40 mm). Parts catalogue (EPC), rear axle drive shaft. The nut is castellated and pinned. Fit new ones
  • Gearbox driveshaft oil seal (one per side). A varilip seal with a thin spring inside it. Buy a spare, because owners damaged several fitting them. The parts catalogue (EPC) lists the seal as 35 x 55 x 9 mm, part 90342143 (3 74 151), two per car
  • Gearbox oil, to top up. You lose some whatever you do. See “Oil”

Driveshafts: knocks, buying a new one and swaps

  • Original (OE) driveshaft, right 9198268, left 9198267. Parts catalogue (EPC), the same for NA and Turbo. Owners said to buy genuine. AutoVaux was the cheaper source named in 2014 and 2015. See “Buying a shaft”
  • Inner CV boot kit, GM 9197858. Quinton Hazell QJB1033 was listed as the equivalent, but owners said only the genuine boot lasted. See the inner CV boot guide
  • Outer CV boot kit, GM 9197864. Quinton Hazell QJB910 was listed as the equivalent

F23 gearbox removal and clutch replacement

  • Clutch plate: Helix 77-4993 (6 paddle) or 76-4993 (4 paddle). The 6 paddle has a more OEM feel and takes slightly less torque. The 4 paddle is snatchier and wears faster, but takes more torque.
  • Clutch cover: Helix 60-4996. Rated to 325 ft·lb and the author says it copes in practice with 345. A Sachs cover from Klassen Motors, sent off to be hardened (about 20% stronger), is estimated at 410 ft·lb. The author only knew the specs of some parts.
  • Release bearing: Helix 41-3685 (FTE)
  • New slave cylinder. Reusing the old one is a false economy
  • ARP flywheel bolts, plus thread lock. The standard bolts are one-use
  • Flywheel, if the old one is pitted, scored or blued. About £200, and the author fitted a 5.6 kg TTV lightweight one
  • Gearbox oil. About 1.5 L. Some F23s take more
  • Brake fluid, 1/4 to 1/2 L (DOT 5.1 suggested). For the clutch bleed
  • Rubber washers for Nitron dampers, thread lock for the slave cylinder bolts

Gear cable replacement

  • A pair of gear cables. The guide used Cablecraft (Tuthill) cables from Elise-shop. See Gear cables: faults, choosing and adjusting
  • A rivet, to replace the one you drill out. The author says it supports the floor skin. Another owner didn't replace it
  • Cable ties, to replace the seven you cut

Gear cables: faults, choosing and adjusting

  • Cablecraft (Tuthill) motorsport gear cables. Sold through Elise-shop in pairs. Around £150 a pair delivered in 2012. See “Choosing cables”
  • Heat protection for the cables near the exhaust. Owners wrapped them in foil or metal hose. See “Heat”

Gearbox oil leak: breather, overfill and seals

  • Gearbox driveshaft oil seal (one per side). £26 each from Vauxhall in 2013 according to one owner. Blue ones are the standard Vauxhall part and red ones are probably a pattern copy (one owner, unconfirmed). The parts catalogue (EPC) lists the seal as 35 x 55 x 9 mm, part 90342143. Not named in the thread
  • Gearbox oil, 75W-80 or 70W-80, API GL4. One owner, 2013. He wrote the specification as “APL GL4”, which we take to be a typo. See the gearbox oil guide

Gearbox oil replacement

  • Synthetic gearbox oil, about 1.55 L. The author used 1.55 L, but see the warning about the amount. The thread doesn't give a specification, but the TIS gives catalogue no. 19 40 768 and part no. 09 120 541. One owner used the Castrol oil that was recommended at the time and thought the bright red GM gearbox oil was cheaper.

Inner CV boot replacement (passenger side)

  • Inner CV boot kit. The parts catalogue (EPC) lists one driveshaft for both NA and Turbo, with the same inner boot kit (9197858) and inner joint repair kit (9197865), so the boot is the same on both. GM kit (boot, clips and grease). The OEM part number quoted in the thread is AS9197858, about £48 ex VAT in 2013. The kit's grease only just does the job. A Kia Sedona boot (part number 0K552-22-540) and an aftermarket boot from Courtenay Sport are also reported to work.
  • CV boot straps with holes (slotted). The smooth ones in the kit are harder to use
  • Circlips for the shaft end and the CV joint. New ones recommended. One owner reused the old ones
  • CV grease, about 150 g for the inner joint. Any good grease will do. See the track use section

Lightened flywheel: daily driving, engine braking and what owners found

  • Lightened flywheel. About £250 in 2014 and £255 for a Courtenay Sport one in 2015. A TTV Racing one was also fitted by owners. Weights mentioned: about 5.8 kg for one, and about 4.2 kg for the TTV, which its owner thought a little too light. The standard weight isn't given in the threads

Limited-slip differential: fitting (F23 gearbox)

  • The limited-slip differential. The thread uses a Quaife ATB
  • Plastic cap behind the plug, part 9120609. Needed if you break the original. Sold in minimum orders of 5. The parts catalogue (EPC) lists 9120609 as the oil pipe for the intermediate shaft in the clutch housing
  • Plastic-coated metal cap, part 9120610. One needed. The parts catalogue (EPC) lists 9120610 as the expansion plug for the oil pan
  • Differential conical bearings, part 93334162. Two needed
  • Differential side pinion shims, to suit what you measure. Parts catalogue (EPC): 0.50 to 1.35 mm in 0.05 mm steps, part numbers 93368578 (0.50) to 93368595 (1.35), or the full set 9193496
  • Thread-lock, firm grade. For the crown ring bolts
  • Intermediate shaft ball bearing, 25 x 52 x 15 mm, part 93368564. Intermediate shaft to clutch housing. Parts catalogue (EPC), F23 gearbox. The shaft has to be drifted out of this bearing as you split the case
  • Intermediate shaft retaining screw, M16 x 1.5, part 93368601. Parts catalogue (EPC), F23 gearbox
  • Intermediate shaft set, part 93368555. Parts catalogue (EPC), F23 gearbox

Electrical

Aftermarket light switch panels and how the switches are wired

  • Replacement light switch panel. From Type 116 Motorsport. See their site for current availability
  • Original switch frame ("cradle"). Cut when fitting the Type 116 set, so one owner suggested buying a spare second-hand frame

Alternator: testing and replacing it

  • Alternator (GM / Vauxhall unit, or refurbished). A GM unit from a Vauxhall dealer parts supplier was about £120 delivered in 2012. One owner had his refurbished with a new diode pack for about £50 in 2011

Central locking (CDL) module: replacing it, or repairing a failed relay

  • CDL module, Lotus A116M6048F. The label reads LOTUS A116M6048 CDL MODULE. Owners paid £48 from Lotus (2010), about £51 seen (2011), £20 for a new sealed unit from a Lotus owner (2013) and about £70 from memory. In 2014 one owner listed £70.71 + VAT (two dealers), £81.98, £84.52, £84.85 and £86 + VAT (Vauxhall). Online prices of about £80 delivered were quoted
  • Relay, TE V23072C1061A303 (RS 308-0683). Used by one owner in 2014 at £3.92 to replace a failed relay on the original board. The original relays are marked HG 4117 012-Z1, 12 V, 130 Ω coil. Check the datasheets match before relying on this
  • Replacement dash top self-tappers. Two of the six are hard to refit; one owner only replaced four

Central locking backup battery: where it is and how to replace it

  • Replacement backup battery, YT4L-BS type. The label in the original post reads YUASA YT4L-BS. One owner in 2018 fitted a YTX4L-BS, said to be identical to the one that came out. Prices: about £15 for a motorcycle battery (2011), £24 delivered (2018), £35 from a high street chain (2012). The original post quotes “12 V 30 A/hr”, which looks like a typo for a small capacity, so go by the YT4L-BS label

Central locking: fitting remote locking to an NA (or a Turbo without it)

  • Central locking kit with two door motors. One NA owner used an eBay kit with two master motors, about £30 in total (2009). Another owner said that for the doors you need slim motors, and used VXT-type motors (two cost about £90 from Vauxhall in 2009). A Turbo owner paid about £7 each from an independent supplier. A universal remote central locking unit from an alarm specialist was £25 in 2017
  • Stainless plate for mounting the motors. One owner used 1 mm stainless plate, about 240 x 100 mm, on the inner door frame
  • Fused supply, relay unit or CDL module, connectors, cable. Basic setup with two relays, one for lock and one for unlock, with the wires on one swapped. Or a second-hand VXT central locking control unit
  • Cut-off switch (optional). One owner fitted a switch so he could turn the system off and go back to manual locks if it played up

Front fog light bulb replacement

  • Front fog bulb: H3. Two members found H3, after one first said H1. See the bulb section below

Headlight bulb replacement (dipped and main beam)

  • Dipped beam bulb: H1. See Bulb types and upgrades. One 2005 owner assumed H7, which is the main beam
  • Main beam bulb: H7. See Bulb types and upgrades
  • Headlamp mounting bracket, right 9198099 / left 9198097. Parts catalogue (EPC)
  • Self-locking M8 nut 9197871 (two per headlamp) and M8 x 16.6 washer 9198224. EPC. This is the standard nut the wingnut below replaces
  • Headlamp cover: right 93185671, left 93185672. EPC. Same numbers for both traffic directions. Sealing strip 93185673 (cut to length), decals 93179095
  • M8 wingnut with a shakeproof washer, one per headlight. One owner’s suggestion (2011), to replace the standard nut so you can change bulbs without tools

Headlight lens replacement, resealing and restoration

  • Replacement front lens, or a new headlamp unit. The lens isn't sold separately by the manufacturer (2012). From 2016 an owner supplied injection-moulded replacement lenses, UV coated, with or without an E mark. We don't know whether they are still made. A listing someone sent us is linked below, and we haven't checked it
  • Butyl headlamp tape or butyl headlamp adhesive. Two owners used it from an Elise parts supplier, then went round the edge with a sealant
  • Black headlamp sealant or black PU sealant. Used to bond the lens, or to go round the edge afterwards. Black gives an invisible joint
  • Black touch-up paint stick. For black paint that comes away from the inside of the lens

Indicator flasher relay (K31): where it is, and fixing fast flashing with LED bulbs

  • LED-compatible flasher relay, or a CF13 GL02-type relay. One owner said the CF13 GL02 type works with LEDs or a mix of LEDs and bulbs, from 0.02 A to 20 A. We haven’t checked the pin layout against the VX220 plug. Check before you buy

Light switch faults: cleaning, replacing and the dead warning lights

  • Replacement switch (side, head, front fog). 4 pins. Vectra B facelift air con switch, with the VX220 front put on. See below
  • Replacement switch (rear fog). 5 pins. No like-for-like swap reported
  • Replacement switch (hazard). 7 pins. No like-for-like swap reported
  • Complete replacement panel. Type 116 Motorsport sells one. See the aftermarket light switch panels guide

Main battery replacement

  • Battery. TIS lists 38 Ah, according to one owner. Several fits are listed below
  • Replacement battery terminal (if the original is loose or corroded). Owners say the positive terminal housing wears out; you can fit a new terminal to the existing cable

Rear light bulbs: tail light out, melted holders and blowing bulbs

  • Stop/tail bulb, 21/5 W twin filament: 90002521 (four per car). See Bulb types and upgrades
  • Reverse and rear fog bulb, 21 W: 90002520 (two per car). Parts catalogue (EPC)
  • Indicator bulb, 21 W amber: 90487485 (four per car). EPC
  • Rear lamp assembly, NA (Z22SE), left-hand traffic (UK), right / left: 9197584 / 9197585. EPC. For right-hand traffic: right 9197586, left 9197587
  • Rear lamp assembly, Turbo (Z20LET), left-hand traffic (UK), right / left: 9198397 / 9198398. EPC. For right-hand traffic: right 9198399, left 9198400
  • Lens-to-body gasket, 5 x 3 mm, cut to length: 9198045. EPC
  • Fixings per car: M5 nut 9198054 (8), washer 5 x 10 9198055 (8), washer 3/16 x 3/4 in 9198016 (16). EPC
  • Spare bulb holder or rear light loom. Two owners in 2010 said they had spares lying around. The parts catalogue doesn’t list them separately

The yellow starter inhibit relay (K14): failure, replacements and workarounds

  • Yellow starter inhibit relay (K14). Lotus B116M0032F, Vauxhall 9197914, Meta A116M0032, marked with a red sticker. The parts catalogue (EPC) lists it as a yellow 6-contact starter relay. Out of production and no longer available new. See the replacements below

Wiper motor failure: water in the motor, cleaning it, and replacements

  • New wiper motor. About £350 in the UK in 2014. One owner’s refurbished motors cost £300 each in 2025
  • Wiper motor and linkage assembly, right-hand drive: 9197614 (up to car 2N003499) or 9198361 (from 2N003500). Parts catalogue (EPC)
  • Wiper motor and linkage assembly, left-hand drive: 9197617 (up to car 2N003752) or 9198362 (from 2N003753). EPC
  • Motor cover: right-hand drive 9197609, left-hand drive 9197616. Cover screws 9197600 (2), spring nuts 9197601 (2). EPC
  • Unit-to-bulkhead fixings: M8 x 20 socket screw 9197610 (3), washer 9198224 (3), spring washer 9198227 (3). EPC
  • Waterproof insulating tape. To seal the motor after cleaning

Engine

Alternator belt, tensioner and idler bracket

  • Poly-V alternator belt. One car used a 5-rib 880 mm belt (05PK 0880), and any 5-rib 880 mm belt is said to do, so it needn’t come from Vauxhall. The threads don’t say whether that length is the same on every car, so check yours against the old belt
  • Revised idler bracket, early Turbo only. Part number 93183526
  • Belt tensioner, if yours is seized or worn. A single bolt holds it on

Balancer shaft deletion: what owners did on the Turbo and NA

  • Balancer shaft deletion kit (Turbo). From Courtenay Sport. Owners quoted about £89.95 in 2009, just under £90 in 2008 and about £100 in a 2008 reply. Owners described it as a ladder frame, oil pickup and splash cover, 8 bolts, blanking grub screws and a gasket. Sump gaskets were an optional extra, and a later reply said the kit does not include them.
  • Sump gaskets (upper and lower). An owner quoted 55354477 (upper) and 55354476 (lower), and a later poster found them online by those numbers. Check the numbers before ordering.
  • Two grub screws, with threadlock. For blocking the oil feeds in the crank bearing caps. One owner guessed M6 or M8 and nobody confirmed it.

Camshaft upgrades: what owners fitted on the NA and Turbo

  • Camshafts (regrinds or new). See the options below. Cam specs quoted in the threads came from sellers' catalogues and owners' recollections
  • Uprated valve springs and retainers. One owner said the Comp stage 3 cams need them, because of spring compression. He said stage 2 is fine with standard springs up to 7,800 rpm
  • Adjustable cam sprockets (NA). One owner said Saab keyless sprockets let you set the timing exactly, which the standard slotted ones don't
  • Cam belt kit (Turbo). Cams are fitted with a belt change, as owners did. See the Turbo cam belt guide

Coil pack: faults, testing and replacing

  • Coil pack, genuine (OEM). Owners said to buy genuine. Autovaux sold a new Bosch one for £84 in 2011 and about £75 in 2009. See “Buying one”
  • Ignition module, NA (Z22SE): 12580537 (12 08 026), from engine number 11334391. Parts catalogue (EPC). Earlier modules (12569342, 12567686) are superseded by it. Held to the cylinder head cover by four M6 x 45 hex head screws (11516530)
  • Ignition module, Turbo (Z20LET): 9198834 (62 35 037). EPC. Held by two M6 x 60 fillister head screws (11098802), and has an earth strap (9198201)
  • Spark plugs, if you are in there anyway. See the spark plug replacement guide

Crankcase breather and PCV: options, catch tanks and oil in the intake

  • Catch tank or oil separator, hoses and a small breather filter. Cheap empty tanks separate little. See below
  • Fittings for an extra vent, if used. One owner used an M22 x 1.5 to AN fitting in the timing chain inspection plug

EGR valve replacement (NA)

  • EGR valve from a Z22SE engine. The author took his from a scrapped 2001 Vauxhall Vectra, and says it is the same valve as on the 2.2 Astra and Zafira. He stresses that it must be from a Z22SE engine. The old gasket under the valve can be re-used

Engine mount failure: noise, checking and which mounts to order

  • Side engine mounts (damping blocks), left and right. These are the ones that fail. Owners said original-type mounts, not short pattern parts (see below)
  • Front and rear engine mounts, rubber. One owner quoted 9197990 for the rubber mount. From the thread, not checked against the parts catalogue
  • Rear mount casting. One owner quoted 9197995 for the casting that holds the rear mount. From the thread, not checked against the parts catalogue
  • Polyurethane lower mount insert kit (optional). One owner named Powerflex PFF80-810. It comes in packs of two, so front and rear takes two packs

Engine mount replacement (side mounts)

  • Engine damping block (mount), near side and/or off side. Vauxhall part. Owners often replace both at once, as a failed pair is common

Engine oil leak: finding the source

  • Crank breather 90 degree elbow, Turbo, 25 mm (Vauxhall 90423667). Parts catalogue (EPC) confirms 90423667 as the bend hose, ventilation pipe to cylinder head. About £8 in 2010. Silicone replacements exist. See “Turbo: breather elbow and cam cover”
  • Other Turbo crankcase ventilation parts (EPC). Non-return valve 90423045. Hose, cylinder head cover to air cleaner elbow 90423606, and to air cleaner 9198372. Throttle body hose 90424285. Flange with tube 90501290 and gasket 90500571, held by two M8 x 22 screws 11052954. Clamps: 90530642 (two, at the cover), 90572595 (32 mm), 90424428, 11088031 (10-16 mm)
  • NA crankshaft front seal, 90571925 (6 38 199). Parts catalogue (EPC), listed with the oil pump
  • NA cylinder head cover gasket: metal cover (engines to 11144979) 90537319, plastic cover (from 11144980) 24439408. EPC. The cover with gasket and screws is 24426068 (metal) or 13113034 (plastic)
  • NA crankshaft rear seal, 90 x 104 x 11 mm (90325572). Parts catalogue (EPC), Z22SE
  • NA oil filter housing seals (two metal seals). See the oil filter housing guide for part sources and fitting

NA oil filter housing leak: seals, torque and the tool

  • Oil cooler adaptor sealing rings (2), 9198195. The part number (48 01 195) is the one in the title of the 2011 thread. TIS says to discard them and fit new ones, with the ridge sides uppermost. Vauxhall special order in 2011, aftermarket graphite or metal seals later. See “Seals”
  • Housing parts: oil filter assembly 9198199, outer cap 9198190, adaptor 9198175, cap O-ring 9197883. Parts catalogue (EPC). The oil cooler connector is 9198173
  • Oil filter element: 93175493 (current), replacing 93171212. EPC, for engines from number 11022036. Earlier engines used 9194746, which is also superseded
  • Sealing washers (2) for the oil feed hose adaptor and the oil pressure switch. TIS says to discard them and fit new ones
  • Filter cap O-ring. Separate from the cooler seals. See the oil and filter change guide

NA timing chain: when to change it and how

  • Camshaft drive set (chain kit): 12577385 (56 36 400). The parts catalogue (EPC) lists this set for engines from number 11086547 (Kaiserslautern built). Earlier sets are superseded, the last of the chain of replacements being 12576644. The set appears to contain the camshaft sprockets and screws, chain, tensioner with its O-ring and seal ring, tensioner arm, guide rails, crankshaft gear, front screw plug and oil jet. Check what is in the kit you buy, and get one with coloured links on the chain so you can time it
  • Oil jet for the chain, 12577163, with its M6 x 30 screw (11516425). EPC. Replaces 90537476, which is no longer supplied
  • Chain guide rail, 13104978, and upper guide rail, 90537337. EPC. Replaces 90537633 on earlier engines
  • Tensioner screw: M10 x 60 (11516354) or M8 x 30 (11518055). EPC lists both and says the breakpoint is not available, so check the one you remove
  • Camshaft timing chain tensioner (24 448 509) and tensioner rail (24 449 448). The part numbers TIS gives (2005) for replacing an unmarked tensioner. The parts catalogue (EPC) lists these as the current tensioner and arm from car number 1N001562, replacing the original tensioner (90537802) and arm (90537842), which are no longer supplied
  • Balancer chain kit. Only if you are doing the balancer chain too
  • Auxiliary (alternator) belt tensioner. Two owners replaced theirs at the same time, as the tensioner comes off anyway. Their old ones were damaged
  • Driver’s side engine mount. One owner wished he had replaced it, as it has to come off for the job
  • Engine oil and filter. You will be draining or disturbing the oil anyway

Pistons and rods: what owners fitted on the Turbo and NA

  • Z20LEH (Astra VXR) pistons. Several owners used these in the Turbo. A poster who said he worked for Mahle said they are not sold new in the aftermarket.
  • Eagle rods and Wiseco pistons (NA, 2.2). A 2013 group buy from a US supplier. See the group buy section for prices. The supplier quoted less for pistons and rods ordered together.

Post-cat lambda sensor replacement

  • Post-cat lambda sensor: Turbo 9201421, NA 12567680. Parts catalogue (EPC), item 7 (Turbo) or 9 (NA) in the exhaust section. Don’t confuse it with the pre-cat sensor (Turbo 9193148, NA 12569391 from car 1N000001)
  • Anti-seize grease. The new sensor may come pre-coated
  • Zip ties. To secure the wiring and the connector again

Venting the cam cover to atmosphere: size, hose length and the oil filler cap

  • Fittings for an extra vent, if used. One owner used an M22 x 1.5 to AN fitting in the timing chain inspection plug

Exhaust

A home-built 4-1 manifold and 2.5 inch exhaust (one owner’s NA project)

  • 2.5 inch 90 degree bends and straight pipe. Cut, point-welded into shape, then given to a welder for final welding
  • Metallic hi-flow cat (ready made). An all-metal unit; the owner didn’t say the make
  • Silencer. A three-way chambered unit, silent enough but not ideal for flow. Other designs were considered but not built

Exhaust backbox: swapping it, clam on or off, and what to expect

  • Rear silencer and tail pipe, original: NA 9198101, Turbo 9198450. Parts catalogue (EPC)
  • Intermediate pipe: NA 9198105, Turbo 9198449. EPC. Flange: three M8 nuts (NA 93183500, Turbo 9198286) and three screws 9198094
  • Retaining strap, silencer to intermediate pipe: 9198098. EPC
  • Rear silencer heat shield: 9197824. EPC
  • Intermediate pipe heat shields: NA 9197825 (upper and lower, two off), Turbo upper 9198294 and lower 9198295. EPC. Clips 9197694 (NA seven, Turbo six). NA shield screws M6 x 12 9197528 (four) with washers 9198128

Exhaust dropped or clonking: the sheared hanger bracket

  • Exhaust support bracket, NA: right 9197754, left 9197757. Parts catalogue (EPC). Bracket nuts M8: 93183500
  • Exhaust support bracket, Turbo: right 9198451, left 9198452. EPC. Same M8 nuts, 93183500
  • Exhaust mounting clip 9198206 (three) and M6 x 35 screws 9197663 (six), NA. EPC. Damper rings 9198085 (three)
  • Exhaust hanger bracket. One owner had a spare in 2012

Exhaust manifold heat: wrap or heat shield?

  • Nimbus heat shield sheet. Used by several owners on the engine side of the boot bulkhead
  • Exhaust wrap. Wrapped with about a 50% overlap, damped first, with plenty of stainless cable ties
  • Wrap spray (optional). Sprayed on after wrapping to make it last longer; needs a proper respirator
  • Reflective adhesive insulation (optional). One owner puts this on the boot wall before the Nimbus

Exhaust shroud (heat shield) replacement

  • Heat-resistant black adhesive. One owner used black heat-resistant PU adhesive, another black silicone. See the notes below on how well each lasted
  • Heat-proof paint. Only needed for the home-made version
  • An empty drinks can of the right size. Only needed for the home-made version

NA exhaust manifold replacement (Z22SE)

  • Manifold-to-head gasket, 9230949. Parts catalogue (EPC), Z22SE. The manifold to cylinder head gasket set is 9194750, and the EGR adaptor gasket is 12570863
  • Manifold-to-downpipe gasket. As above. One owner asked whether RTV paste is enough instead of gaskets; the thread doesn’t answer
  • Manifold studs (and nuts). Often corroded or broken. One garage was told in 2017 that Vauxhall had none in stock; another owner says the same studs are used on B207, A20NFT, Z22SE, Z22YH and Z20NET engines, so it is probably just a stock problem. One owner bought a set when he did his
  • Penetrating fluid. The proper stuff; one owner found it was the only thing that shifted the heat shield nut. Another planned to use WD40

NA exhaust upgrade: what to expect, what it costs

  • 2.5 inch custom stainless system. A custom fabricator quoted £650 built and fitted in 2017, with the pre-cat removed. Used backboxes were said to go for around £200 or more

NA pre-cat removal: the four methods owners used

  • Copperslip. On the manifold and pipe nuts when refitting (one owner’s advice, 2003)
  • Spare high-tensile 8 mm nuts and bolts (3). The flange between the cat pipe and the backbox may be badly rusted and the bolts may need cutting off
  • Drill bits, several. The catalyst material melts onto the bit. One owner used about five drills, another says buy plenty

Sports cats (100 and 200 cell): are they worth it?

  • Weld-in sports cat. One owner paid under £100 from Magnaflow (2007) and says it improved performance over a standard cat. He chose a flat cat rather than a round one, to leave more room for the downpipe bends. Another owner mentions about £80 plus welding (2013)

Fuel

Fuel pump replacement

  • Replacement fuel pump. Standard, or uprated (a 255 l/h pump is mentioned in the thread). Spitfire Engineering also sells a complete replacement pump assembly, which is possibly a much easier option
  • Fuel-hose-specific clip. Use this where the hose meets the new pump, not a Jubilee clip
  • Replacement blue seal for the pump housing. Needed every time with a Pro-Alloy tank
  • Solder and polyolefin heat-shrink sleeving. For the wiring joins. Owners say polyolefin resists petrol
  • A thin cover plate for the enlarged hatch, rivnuts and heat-resistant silicone sealant

Fuel vapour system removal

  • No extra parts needed. An 8 mm bolt with a non-threaded shank (or similar) to block one hose, and optionally a small gauze filter for the vent hose end

Injectors for supercharged cars: sizes, duty cycle and what owners ran

  • Standard NA (Z22SE) injector: 12569091 (58 17 404/405). Parts catalogue (EPC), replacing 12565474. The complete NA rail with injectors and regulator is 12567703
  • Standard Turbo (Z20LET) injector, the black one: 90423762. Parts catalogue (EPC). The complete Turbo rail with injectors and regulator is 90423672
  • Blue VXR injector (Astra/Zafira VXR, Z20LEH). Bosch 0 280 156 280 according to one owner; Vauxhall 55556799 in 2011. See “The injectors owners named”
  • Siemens Deka 4 60 lb (about 630 cc/min). Owners’ choice for Harrop and bigger power in 2013. Needs the fuel rail spaced out and EV1 connectors
  • Bosch EV14 (0 280 158 123). Fitted to a Z22SE rail by two owners. See the fitting guide

Larger injectors: fitting, rail spacers and removing the fuel rail

  • NA fuel rail studs to cylinder head: 11519788 (20 56 901), two. Parts catalogue (EPC), replacing 90537463. The rail is held by these studs on the Z22SE
  • Grey plastic injector insulators, GM ACDelco kit 217-2762. Used with alloy raiser blocks on EV14 injectors by two owners. Not needed with the adapters one other owner used
  • Alloy fuel rail raiser blocks. Standard on Z20NET and Saab B207 rails. Owners said a small washer between rail and blocks added the extra clearance for EV14s. No part number in the threads
  • Bosch EV14 injector 0 280 158 123. A little longer than the Z20LET, VXR or Siemens 60 lb injectors. See “Why the rail doesn’t sit down”
  • EV1 connectors. Needed for everything except the original, black turbo and green LSJ injectors, according to one owner. Disputed. See “Connectors”

Pro-Alloy fuel tank: fitting

  • Pro-Alloy replacement fuel tank. Includes a larger option; see the 60 litre notes below
  • New crush-type clips for the three evap hoses. The originals have to be cut off
  • Gaffer tape. To cover the open hose and pipe ends
  • Spare Jubilee clips. Space around the filler neck is tight

Turbo fuel pipe clips

  • 2 × self-adhesive cable tie mounts with a centre bolt hole
  • 2 × short bolts with nyloc nuts. Sized to suit the mount and bracket holes. Use the shortest that will do the job.
  • Heat-resistant cable ties

Interior

Dash top removal

  • Flat-head scrivets, if you have to replace the logo plate rivets. Preferred to metal rivets, which would start to corrode
  • Velcro, to replace plastic rivets on the dash plates. Recommended in the photo thread
  • Door draught strip (3 mm was enough), if you want to renew the seal at the heater inlet. Optional

Door card refurbishment: re-covering, repairs and refit fixings

  • Real leather or fake leather for the cover. One owner found real leather easier to glue than fake leather
  • Strong glue, such as polyurethane glue, for filling holes and broken sections. One owner used Gorilla glue
  • Contact adhesive rated for heat. The one owner used one rated to 200°C. A door card in a sunny car gets hot
  • Grey plastic primer, paint and matt lacquer, for the silver plastic parts. See the painting section
  • 3 mm foam scrim, for the back of aftermarket arm rest covers. Used to take up a poor fit
  • Replacement clips, or a stick-on alternative. See the refit section

Door panel removal

  • Replacement plastic door card clips. 30p each from Vauxhall in 2007. Several people broke some. There are six clips on the door cards and three on the small panel.
  • Heavy-duty Velcro and contact adhesive, if you choose to use Velcro instead of the clips. See the Velcro notes below, because owners disagree

Heated seat kit: fitting

  • Heated seat pad kit (the 2010 owner used a Waeco kit for just over £60). Two pads per seat, a relay, fuses and two switches. The kit in the thread is no longer sold, so check what comes with yours
  • Impact adhesive. Used to stick the foam and leather back together
  • Rubber grommet, silicone, heat-shrink, cable ties, spiral wrap. For routing the harness through the bulkhead

T7 Design replacement heater: what owners say and fitting notes

  • T7 Design replacement heater kit. Separate RHD and LHD kits, links below
  • Air hose reducer or adapter. One owner found the supplied air hose too small for the dash inlet. See below
  • Coolant. To top up after the heater hoses have been disturbed

Reference

Relays and fuses (NA)

  • Grey relay, 20/30 A, 5 contacts: 9197554 (Bosch 0332209159). Parts catalogue (EPC)
  • Rear fog lamp relay (9197999) and fuel injection valve relay (9197456), 5 contacts. EPC
  • Starter relay, yellow, 6 contacts: 9197914 (Meta A116M0032). EPC. No longer available new: see the yellow starter inhibit relay guide

Servicing

Air filter: changing it and choosing one

  • Paper air filter element, NA (Z22SE): 90512446 (Opel) or 90512447 (Vauxhall). Parts catalogue (EPC). Owners quote about £4 from a motor factor (2016). Give your registration to the supplier to get the right one
  • Paper air filter element, Turbo (Z20LET): 9117557 (Opel) or 91155714 (Vauxhall, not VXR). Parts catalogue (EPC). The VXR element is 93184705
  • Spare plastic clips for the wheel arch liner. They break easily, so have some to hand if you take the liner off

Engine oil and filter change

  • Engine oil. NA: the 2002 TIS gives 5.5 litres with the filter, ACEA A3/B3, and SAE 0W, 5W or 10W with a second number of 30 or more. See “How much oil” and “Which oil, and how often”. Turbo: the TIS gives 4.25 litres with the filter and the same grade as the NA (see “How much oil”). Owners have used 15W-40 semi-synthetic, 5W-30, 0W-40 and Motul 300V
  • Oil filter. Turbo: a normal spin-on filter. NA: a cartridge filter. A generic Z22SE filter is said to fit. The parts catalogue (EPC) lists element 93175493 for engines from number 11022036, replacing 93171212 (and earlier 9194746)
  • NA: cap O-ring. Several owners say the one supplied with the filter is too big, so buy the correct one separately
  • NA: two oil cooler ring seals. Vauxhall no longer sells them. Aftermarket ones are available. Have a set ready before you start, because they often have to be replaced
  • Sump plug washer. The TIS says replace it each time, but several owners reuse it. See the notes below

Spark plug replacement

  • Four spark plugs. The author used genuine GM plugs. Other owners mention NGK platinum and NGK laser platinum. The parts catalogue (EPC) lists Bosch plugs: NA (Z22SE) 9199038, Turbo (Z20LET) 9195109. The Vauxhall-numbered NA plug is superseded: use 91158431. The Turbo one is 91132006 (VXR 93184706)
  • Copper grease. Use plenty when fitting the plugs

Steering

Steering column shroud and steering wheel removal

  • Lower steering column cover: NA 9197443, Turbo 93185088 (93178001 with central locking). Parts catalogue (EPC). One owner bought one on eBay in 2009
  • Upper steering column cover: NA 9197435, Turbo 93185087. Parts catalogue (EPC). The Turbo covers are held by two countersunk screws (93185092)
  • Ignition switch and steering column lock: 90389377. Barrel and keys: 9198954 (two keys, unspecified lock). Parts catalogue (EPC). 9198955 is the specified-lock version with one key, not for Vauxhall. Escutcheon 90181148
  • Steering wheel nut M14 (11011779) and lock plate (90539666). Parts catalogue (EPC) lists the wheel as held to the shaft by an M14 nut and a lock plate. TIS gives 25 Nm for the nut

Steering column universal joints

  • Universal joint kit from Elise Parts. Offered as a single joint, a joint with shaft, or two joints with shaft. One owner thought they had stopped selling it in July 2013, but another bought a lower joint from them that September
  • Intermediate steering shaft assembly (9197880). Parts catalogue (EPC). Held by four M8 x 40 hex head screws (9197870)
  • Lotus joint, part number D111H0003F. Quoted by one owner in 2013 for the replacement joint. Not confirmed by anyone who bought it

Steering rack replacement (with a DIY tracking check)

  • Steering gear (rack): left-hand drive 93184447 from car number 4N007446, right-hand drive 93184446 from 4N007449. Parts catalogue (EPC). Earlier racks (9197613 and 9197612, before them 9197882 and 9197881) are no longer supplied and are replaced by these. The catalogue doesn’t say which rack type is which
  • Steering gear height adjusting plates, 00 to 09 notch (9197425 to 9197449). EPC. Fixed to the chassis with two rivets (9197875). The 00 notch plate is no longer supplied: use 9197876
  • Replacement steering rack. In 2009 and 2012 owners pointed to Titan Motorsport, who offered a new OEM rack (2.75 turns lock to lock), a quicker 2.5-turn one, and a refurbishment service. Check what is available now
  • 2 new Nylock nuts for the track-rod ends. From the author's list
  • 2 new 13 mm Nylock nuts for the intermediate shaft bolts. Or not, depending on what sort of fixing you find
  • Intermediate shaft universal joints (optional). The author found them poor quality and worth checking while the shaft is off. Another owner replaced his from Elise Parts

Steering rack types, refurbishing and replacements

  • Bronze (or brass) cups for the ends of a Titan rack. Sold by Seriously Lotus. Elise Parts was also said to have metal inserts. They need lapping in
  • Titan's overhaul kit for the early rack. Titan sell spares direct, with a minimum order by value. They don't normally sell the pinion or the bushes it runs in
  • Valve-lapping compound. For lapping the new cups onto the ball end of the steering arm
  • Sticky, soap-based molybdenum grease. One owner said some CV joint greases are good for this

Track rod ends and rear tie rods

  • Outer track rod end: 9199057 (48 01 291), with nut 9198106 and M12 lock nut 9197878. Parts catalogue (EPC). Two per car
  • Front track rod ends (VX220/Speedster fit). Owners bought them from Elise Parts, Elise-shop and Seriously Lotus. See “Choosing front track rod ends”
  • A new Nyloc nut for each track rod end. The TIS says to use a new one. No thread lock
  • Rear tie rods (toe links), complete or the joints alone. AutoVaux sold the whole assembly. See “Rear tie rods”

Supercharger

Supercharging an NA: what you need, what it costs and where it comes from

  • Supercharger (Eaton M62, from the Saturn Ion / Cobalt SS, also sold as the Harrop LSJ). Imported from the US by most owners. Harrop TVS1320 is the bigger option, see below
  • Inlet manifold, from the same donor car. Bought with the blower
  • Throttle body. LSJ / Cobalt SS unit is the usual choice, with the plug wires moved. See “Throttle body”
  • Idler pulley bracket beside the alternator. UK specific, from a specialist or fabricated
  • Charge cooler radiator, header tank, pump, hose. Pro Alloy is the common kit. See the charge cooler fitting guide
  • Injectors. Black Z20LET or larger. See the injector guide. Beware of fakes

Suspension

Adjustable shocks: fitting (Gaz Gold coilovers)

  • Adjustable shocks with springs. Gaz Gold kits were fitted by most owners. Nitron kits are also mentioned. Kits differ in body width and spacers, see the notes below
  • New shock mounting bolts (optional). M10, 8.8 grade. See the bolt sizes below. Don’t use stainless

Anti-roll bars: choosing uprated, adjustable and rear bars

  • Uprated front anti-roll bar. Options named: the adjustable Elise Parts bar (about £204 in 2010), the Plans adjustable bar (about £250 new in 2007), an EP 1 inch bar, an MBR bar and the Cornering Force 1 1/4 inch front blade bar. See the table below
  • Cornering Force kit. Front blade bar plus a fixed rear bar, with dedicated spring rates and damper valving, according to one owner. Designed to work as a set
  • Drop links. Owners replaced worn rose-jointed links with original rubber ones to cure a knock on one car. See the knocking section

Front wishbone removal: access tips

  • Pop rivets. If you drill out the rivets on the alloy bracket to reach the lower wishbone nut
  • New track rod end, castor / camber shims. Worth having to hand: one owner damaged the track rod end thread and had to order another

Hub carrier bolts

  • Front steering arm to hub carrier bolts, M10 × 60 (9198179). One per steering arm, item 11 on the diagram. Parts catalogue (EPC)
  • Front steering arm to hub carrier bolts, M10 × 40 (9197800) or M10 × 50 (9197826). One per steering arm, item 12. The catalogue lists both lengths and doesn’t say which cars have which, so check the one you remove
  • Front hub to hub carrier bolt, M16 × 100 (9197829), with nut (9197793). One per side, item 3, with its washers and bearing shield. Self-locking nut, so fit a new one
  • Front hub to hub carrier screws (9197823). Item 9, six in all (three per side)
  • Camber shims, 1 mm (9197810). Between steering arm and hub carrier. The 3 mm shim is no longer supplied: use 1 mm shims. A further shim (9197822) sits under the steering arm and ABS sensor. The rear has the same 1 mm shim (9197850, as many as needed) between the ball joint carrier and hub carrier, and its 3 mm shim is also no longer supplied
  • Rear ball joint carrier to hub carrier screws, socket head M10 × 50 (9197846). Item 5, four in all (two per side). Parts catalogue (EPC). Lotus revised the equivalent bolt to grade 10.9 (see below)
  • Rear hub to hub carrier screws (9197788). Item 3, six in all (three per side)
  • New nyloc nuts. Don't reuse them
  • Thread-locking compound, wire brush and acetone. For bolts that were thread-locked, per the Lotus procedure below

Rear toe links

  • Rear toe link joints (inner and outer) or a complete toe link. OEM or uprated kit. Don't buy cheap rod ends.
  • Thread lock. Optional, for the outer joint

Shock absorber choice: refurbishing, replacing or upgrading

  • Replacement shocks and springs. See the options below. Replace all four together, one owner advised
  • Front top mounting brackets. Needed with the wider Nitron Street Series dampers. Included with that kit according to one owner
  • Replacement springs for Nitron dampers. One owner said they take 2.25 inch springs, so any in the correct length and rate will do. Check with Nitron or a specialist

Suspension refresh: what to replace and what it costs

  • Ball joints x 8. Eight in all, one per wishbone. See Wishbone ball joints and bushes
  • Wishbone bushes (front and rear). Rubber or polyurethane
  • Track rod ends x 2. At the steering rack
  • Drop links x 2. Anti-roll bar links
  • Rear toe links (tie bars). Optional, but the owner who replaced them says the old ones would look bad against the new suspension, and that they sometimes fail
  • Bolt set, nyloc nuts and hub carrier bolts. Or clean up the originals
  • Castor and camber shims, ABS sensor brackets, rear locking tabs

Uprated front anti-roll bar: fitting

  • Uprated adjustable anti-roll bar. The author fitted the Eliseparts S2 adjustable bar: stronger than the original, with nylatron bushes, and a direct replacement for the standard bar. See the note on the two bush kits below
  • Lubricant for the new bushes. Use plenty. The type isn’t stated
  • Stainless socket head bolts, M8 x 25 mm (optional). Used in place of the lower chassis bracket bolts, so that the wishbones don’t need moving next time
  • Rivets, if you refit the aluminium panels. 3 rivets per side. See the note on the panels below

Wheel alignment (geometry) settings

  • Front track rods. The old ones are probably seized, and are cheap to replace before an alignment
  • Camber shims, if you need to add some back. They can be ordered from Vauxhall, and Elise parts suppliers sell them too

Wheel hub and bearing replacement, front and rear

  • Hub and bearing unit (with ABS sensor). See Wheel bearings: which to buy. The same part fits all four corners
  • Hub bolts (3 per hub). The bolts supplied with some kits are too long. Reuse the originals if undamaged, or buy the right ones
  • Split pin for the rear driveshaft nut. A new one usually comes with the kit
  • Mid-strength thread lock. One owner recommends it on the hub bolts

Wishbone ball joints and bushes

  • Front wishbone ball joint, 9197833. Parts catalogue (EPC). The same part for upper and lower, NA and Turbo. The ball joint nut is 9198137
  • Front wishbone bushes, NA: 9197832 (upper front, and both lower), 9197783 (upper rear). EPC. The Turbo uses different bushes: 9198327 (upper front, and both lower) and 9198326 (upper rear)
  • Front wishbone bolts: M10 x 80 upper front (9197774), M10 x 75 upper rear (9197773), M10 x 85 lower (9197776). EPC. Self-locking nuts 9197991. Castor shims are 1.5 mm: 9197779 (upper front) and 9197896 (upper rear)
  • Rear wishbone bushes, NA: 9197832 (upper, and lower rear), 9197862 (lower front). EPC. The Turbo uses 9198327 (upper, and lower rear) and 9198328 (lower front). Same ball joint, 9197833
  • Rear wishbone bolts: M10 x 55 upper to chassis (9197831, nut 9198086), M10 x 70 lower to bracket (9197038). EPC. The lower wishbone bracket is held to the chassis by four M10 x 25 screws (9197842, self-locking nuts 9197991) and ten M8 x 25 screws (9197035)
  • Wishbone ball joints. Prices in 2011: OEM about £25 each, Delphi-pattern about £15, a lower-quality Delphi about £8. A 2005 specialist quoted Quinton Hazell or Vauxhall OE joints (see below)
  • Wishbone bushes. Prices in 2011: OEM about £280 a set, polyurethane (for example Nylatron, Powerflex) £160 to £200. One owner used a set from a supplier made by the OEM manufacturer, slightly cheaper than OEM
  • Copper grease. One owner used copper slip for pressing the bushes in
  • New wishbone bolts and nyloc nuts. Several owners say replace them, but one owner at 85,000 miles reused near-perfect originals
  • Castor and camber shims. Keep the originals in position, or buy replacements. About £3.50 each from Lotus in 2013, or a stainless set from Elise Parts

Troubleshooting

ABS warning light: repairing a damaged sensor cable

  • 2-way 8 A superseal connector (female only). Usually on eBay for a couple of pounds. You only need the female connector, with its terminals and seals
  • About 5 cm of 1.0 mm diameter wire. To extend the loom
  • Solder, heat shrink and wiring loom tape
  • Sandpaper, 120 to 400 grit. To clean the tarnish off the exposed wire so the solder takes

Central locking faults: won’t lock, won’t unlock, or locked out

  • CDL module (Lotus A116M6048F). Plug-in unit, the usual culprit. See the CDL module guide for prices and fitting
  • Alarm unit. Replaced in one 2017 case that matched CDL-type symptoms; a quote of about £150 was mentioned for a new one

Lambda sensor and P0130: the front sensor

  • Front (pre-cat) lambda sensor, Bosch. One owner paid about £50 in 2014. He compared two Bosch-listed sensors £24 apart and didn’t get a clear answer on the difference

Loom of doom: throttle cut-outs, limp mode and the connectors to check

  • Contact cleaner. Owners say use contact cleaner, not WD40. A fibreglass pen was used to clean the contacts
  • Throttle pedal assembly (only if cleaning fails). About £130 in 2011, as one owner remembered it. Another owner thought the potentiometer can’t be replaced on its own

MAP, boost and lambda sensor faults

  • NA vacuum (MAP) sensor in the inlet manifold: 16212460 (62 38 120). Parts catalogue (EPC), Z22SE
  • Turbo vacuum sensor in the induction manifold: 90541409 (62 38 412), Bosch 0281002137. Parts catalogue (EPC), Z20LET. This is a different Bosch number from the 0261230042 below, so check which your car has before ordering
  • Turbo MAP / boost pressure sensor: Bosch 0261230042. About £90 in 2013. One owner saw a Lotus part (A116E6063F) listed as equivalent for about £38.55 plus VAT, but nobody confirmed it is the same item
  • Front (pre-cat) lambda sensor, Bosch. One owner paid about £50 in 2014. He compared two Bosch-listed sensors £24 apart and didn’t get a clear answer on the difference

P1512 fault code and a car that won’t start

  • Electrical contact cleaner spray. Used on the connectors and relays

Turbo MAF sensor faults: symptoms, tests and cleaning

  • MAF sensor (Bosch). About £100 for a proper OEM-brand one in 2014. One owner found the standard 70 mm sensor and another the 80 mm VXR one; the size has to match the ECU map (see below)

Turbo

Charge cooler pump and fan wiring (Pro Alloy and Courtenay Turbo kits)

  • Relay with integral fuse, or a relay and an in-line fuse
  • 17 amp cable, red or blue (+) and black (-), about 7 metres of each if you run it from the battery. The 2007 owner ran it from the battery. The pump has no current rating marked, and the maker confirmed 17 amp cable was adequate

Intercooler or charge cooler for a Turbo: what owners measured and chose

  • Uprated air-to-air intercooler (MMG, 'stage 3' and 'stage 4' versions). In 2012 the smaller unit (standard up to stage 3) was quoted at £565, then £625 including VAT. The stage 4 unit was quoted at about £1,000 plus VAT including pipework and top hat. Prices are from forum posts in 2012
  • Pro Alloy charge cooler kit. See the fitting guide for the parts and the 2007 price. One owner in 2012 said the charge cooler costs about twice as much as the intercooler and is harder to fit
  • Astra VXR intercooler. One owner bought one cheaply in 2012, rated by the factory to 2 bar, as a cheaper route. The thread does not say how it turned out. Another owner said it would be hard to fit in the space

Pro Alloy charge cooler: fitting to a Turbo

  • Pro Alloy charge cooler kit (Turbo). Pre-rad with twin Spal fans, header tank, charge cooler, silicone hoses rated to 10 bar, Bosch circulation pump, fixings. About £1,600 in 2007 without a replacement main radiator
  • Extended-life coolant, about 10 litres. Mixed 50/50 with water. The system took 14 pints (about 8 litres) in all
  • Relay with integral fuse, or a relay and an in-line fuse
  • 17 amp cable, red or blue (+) and black (-), about 7 metres of each if you run it from the battery
  • Stainless fixings to replace the plated ones. See the list below

Turbo boost solenoids: where they are, how to test and replace them

  • Turbo vacuum control valve: 55557806 (original 55352099 is no longer supplied). Parts catalogue (EPC), Turbocharger section. EPC also lists a 3-way valve repair kit, 9198910
  • Inlet manifold vacuum control valve: 55557829 (earlier 90424141). EPC, Induction manifold section. Held by two M5 Torx screws 11097861 to the manifold support
  • Vacuum box, inlet manifold: 90502721. Repair kit for the turbo vacuum box: 9198909. EPC
  • Vacuum hose, 3 mm bore 90166288 and 3.5 mm bore 90572322 (sold by the metre). EPC. Turbo actuator pipe assembly, 490 mm: 90424365. Vacuum distributor 9281478 (two)
  • Turbo-side solenoid, GM 55557806 (marked 7.01024.00, 12V 12T284). One owner chose this as the turbo-side one in 2013 and another owner confirmed it. The original he removed was marked GM 90 424 141, which matched neither new part. See “Part numbers”
  • Inlet-side solenoid, GM 55 577 092 (marked 7.01039.02, 12V 12T300). The other one of the pair one owner bought. His own deduction, not confirmed in the thread
  • Boost control solenoid, wastegate actuator vacuum control. About £20 in 2009. AutoVaux quoted £20.45 plus VAT, postage from £2.63, in 2010

Turbo boost: low held boost, overboost and flutter

  • Intercooler: 9198337. Parts catalogue (EPC). Mounting bracket 9198343, held by four rivets 9198306 to the chassis
  • Intercooler hose, to turbocharger: 9198368. To inlet manifold (upper): 9198369. EPC. Clamps: 24442225 (54-64 mm, two) at the intercooler pipe, 24468103 (61-72 mm, two) at the throttle body
  • Intercooler air temperature sensor: 93170309, ring seal 93170311. EPC
  • Turbo vacuum pipe assembly, 490 mm: 90424365. Vacuum control valve 55557806. EPC. See the boost solenoids guide for the full list
  • Turbo heat shields: upper 9198287, lower 9198288. EPC. A hole burnt in the induction pipe by the heat shield is one cause owners found, see below

Turbo cam belt change

  • Cam belt kit. Includes the tensioner and two idler pulleys. See the kit notes below: earlier and later cars use different kits
  • Water pump. Change it at the same time. Use a genuine Vauxhall pump, not a pattern one
  • Zip ties. Three large ones, to refit the intake pipe
  • Spark plugs and coil pack, if you are due them. You take them out anyway

Turbo cooling circuit and track-day upgrades

  • Electric water pump (one owner used a Davies Craig EWP80). Kept the standard belt-driven pump too. Needed a fuel-type one-way valve on the small hose to the thermostat (see below)
  • Pump and fan controller. One owner drove both from two modules with PWM control by temperature and rpm; one was a Volvo fan module

Turbo recirc valve: compressor stall, “turkey” noises and springs

  • Forge recirculation valve with spring (green, yellow or blue). A 30 minute fit according to the owner below (2011). Spring colour depends on boost, see “Spring colours”. No part number in the thread
  • Bailey Motorsport DV30 recirculation valve. One owner (2011) used it in place of the standard valve on his stage 4 and sealed the vacuum pipe to it. No price or fitting details in the thread, and he suggested ringing Bailey for advice

Turbo replacement: access, studs, gaskets and wastegate preload

  • Manifold studs (M8 x 25) and nuts, 10 of each. One owner listed these from the parts catalogue as 92065437 (stud) and 90424073 (nut). Another said they are generic and can be bought anywhere, and that brass nuts are used. Most can be reused unless they snap
  • Gaskets: manifold to head, turbo to pre-cat, pre-cat to main cat, oil return pipe to turbo. One owner listed 90424422 (manifold to head), 90424370 (turbo to pre-cat), 13101735 (pre-cat to main cat) and 90424066 (oil return pipe to turbo), plus washer plate 90424394. From one post, so check against your own car
  • Banjo washers and bolts for the turbo oil feed, the oil return to the sump and the water feed and return. Fit new washers. The same owner listed 11023582, 11081452, 11017691, 11064661 and 11074992, but we haven't checked which bolts are worth renewing

Turbo stage 1 and 2: what owners did, got and paid (2013)

  • Pre-cat replacement downpipe. £125 to £150 (2013). Another owner says a tuner supplies the pipe for £100 to £125
  • BKR6EIX spark plugs. Suggested by one owner as part of the 240 bhp recipe

Turbo swap: standard turbo to the VXR (Z20LEH)

  • Z20LEH (Astra VXR) turbo unit. £449 including VAT outright from Courtenay Sport in March 2006, no exchange scheme. One owner said £500 odd. Vauxhall retail was about £558 against £895 for the standard unit, per another owner. Old prices, check before budgeting

Wheels and tyres

Road tyres: standard sizes, the 175 front problem and what owners fit

  • Front tyre, standard: 175/55R17. The original Bridgestone RE040 is no longer available. Few other makers ever produced this size
  • Rear tyre, standard: 225/45R17. Much wider choice
  • Front tyre, replacement: 195/45R17. The practical choice now. See the rim width warning below

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Last updated 2026-10-31