A silver Vauxhall VX220 on track
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Fitting the hard top

The official workshop procedure for installing and adjusting the hard top: swapping the rear brackets on early cars, loosening the slotted brackets, positioning, the 10 Nm screws, and adjusting the door windows to the hard top seals. Needs a second person.

Applies to: VX220 and Speedster, NA, TurboDifficulty: InvolvedTime: 0.5 hours labour time for the first fitting; owners report a few minutes once set up

Parts

  • Left and right cant rail rear brackets (early cars only) (Part numbers 9 197 327 (left) and 9 197 328 (right), for cars up to model year 2002. Later cars don’t need them)
  • Loctite sealant (For the bracket screw threads)
  • Sealing tape (Only if you cut the door water deflector to adjust the window)

Tools

  • The tool supplied with the hard top, for the tethered brackets and the covers. The procedure warns that any other tool may damage parts
  • Torque wrench for 10 Nm
  • A helper to lift and position the hard top

Torques & specs

Hard top slotted bracket screws, lower (per side)
Tighten with the top pushed fully forward
10 Nm
Hard top slotted bracket screws, upper (per side)
After removing the rear tethered brackets for access
10 Nm

This is the workshop procedure (TIS) for installing a hard top for the first time and adjusting it. The thread posted it in 2004. The hard top bolts on with slotted brackets and screws, and the fitting is a few minutes once it is set up. It can't be stored in the car when it is removed, so it stays at home. The soft top, by comparison, is covered in Soft top: taking it off and putting it on.

This is the first-fit procedure. The procedure covers hard tops supplied by Vauxhall, and the warranty note in the original applies only to early cars (VIN W0L0EAR971N00041 to W0L0EAR971N02190). It says nothing about replica hard tops, which some owners use.

Install and adjust the hard top

  1. Check the door alignment (see the workshop instruction for removing and installing the door).
  2. Open the doors and windows.
  3. Remove the soft top and stow it. Remove the left and right hoops and stow them.
  4. Early cars only (up to model year 2002): remove the left and right cant rail rear brackets from the roll-over bar, and the locating dowels for them. Fit the dowels to the new brackets before fitting them, so the dowels aren't pushed in flush with the roll-over bar face. Fit the new brackets, reusing the screws with Loctite on the threads, and tighten fully.
  5. Remove the interior roof covers from the hard top and check the black spacers are in place on the front cover.
  6. Detach the front and rear tethered brackets (hung on cables) from the hard top.
  7. Loosen the left and right slotted brackets of the hard top assembly (4 screws each side).
  8. Position the hard top with its rear edge on the rear header rail. Lower the front edge onto the front header rail and push it fully forward. A second person is recommended.
  9. Fit the two front tethered brackets loosely. Check the top is central on the front header rail, then secure the front brackets with the tool provided.
  10. Fit and secure the two rear tethered brackets with the tool provided. They must be hooked into the cant rail rear brackets correctly.
  11. Push the hard top fully forward to seat the front brackets fully. Tighten the lower screws of the left and right slotted rear brackets to 10 Nm.
  12. Remove the two rear tethered brackets to reach the upper screws. Tighten the upper screws of the left and right brackets to 10 Nm.
  13. Refit and secure the two rear tethered brackets.
  14. Fit the left and right rear covers to the hard top with the tool provided.
  15. Fit the front header panel (3 screws) with the tool provided. Check the spacers are in place.
  16. Close the windows and doors, and check the windows fit the hard top seals. Adjust them if they don't (below).

Adjusting the door windows

Only needed if the window doesn't seal against the hard top seal.

  1. Open the door and remove the silver insert trim from the door panel.
  2. Cut the water deflector carefully to reach the eccentric adjuster.
  3. Mark the position of the eccentric. Loosen its screw, which goes in from the back, adjust the eccentric and tighten the screw.
  4. Close the window (fit the window crank if needed). Close the door and check the window height. Repeat if needed.
  5. Seal the cut in the water deflector with sealing tape and refit the silver insert trim.
  6. Window inclination: with the door open, turn the front and rear adjusting screws in the lower door area. Don't over-adjust or the screws can pull out of their threads. Close the door and check, and repeat if necessary.

See also Adjusting the windows and Door panel removal.

Help wanted
The procedure's pictures were not saved, so there are no photos of the brackets or screws. We would also like the position of the bracket screws for cars after 2002 and anything on fitting replica hard tops. Photos and corrections are welcome.

Send us details or photos →

Sources & credit

Written up from these owners' original posts. Thanks to everyone who contributed.

Last updated 2026-10-15