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Exhaust shroud (heat shield) replacement

The plastic shroud above the tailpipe, bonded to the mesh in the rear clam, often falls off. What members did about it: refit the original with heat-resistant adhesive, or make a replacement from a drinks can. The thread’s step-by-step photos are lost, so this page has the options but not the steps.

Applies to: VX220 and Speedster, NA, Turbo

Parts

  • Heat-resistant black adhesive (One owner used black heat-resistant PU adhesive, another black silicone. See the notes below on how well each lasted)
  • Heat-proof paint (Only needed for the home-made version)
  • An empty drinks can of the right size (Only needed for the home-made version)

Tools

  • Sharp scissors or a knife
  • Metal file or rotary tool
This guide has no steps yet. The original post said it would walk through making a replacement, with photos, but the photos were hosted elsewhere and are gone (members asked about them in 2015), and the post itself only lists the materials. What follows is what the thread does say.

What it is

The part in question is the plastic shroud above the tailpipe, which is bonded to the mesh in the rear clam. It is a common problem: it "usually quickly departs the rear of most VX220s". One member thought it was just cosmetic, there to hide the mangled mesh. Another said the expensive replacement sold by Eltech offers no heat shielding at all, so members don't agree on whether it protects anything or just covers the mesh.

If you mean a different heat shield, heat wrap has been suggested for the one in the left rear wheel arch, and works fine. That is a different part. There is more on heat protection near the exhaust in the post-cat lambda sensor guide.

Option 1: refit the original

One member asked how Tiger Seal holds up for sticking the original back on. It was fine on the author's car while he had it, but he sold the car about four months later, so he couldn't say how long it lasts, and suggested a heat-resistant black adhesive instead (he edited his guide to say so). Black silicone had lasted 8 years so far for another owner (a 2013 post).

Option 2: make a replacement from a can

In 2012 the author made his own because his had long since dropped off, he didn't want to pay for one of the "over priced" replacements, and he didn't fancy fitting one while struggling underneath the car or removing the whole rear clam. He says it is really easy and improves the look of the rear end. You need:

  • An appropriately sized can, preferably empty
  • Sharp scissors or a knife
  • A metal file or rotary tool
  • Heat-proof paint
  • Black heat-resistant PU adhesive

His album had 11 steps with descriptions. The thread doesn't include them, so we don't know how he cut and shaped the can, or how he fitted it.

Option 3: buy one

A replacement from Eltech was on their Facebook page at about 40 euros in 2015, and you could make something similar if that is too much. One member asked whether they could make one marked VX220 instead of "Speedster". The comment about heat shielding is above.

Help wanted
The steps are the missing part. If you have made or refitted one of these, please send what you did and photos: how you cut and shaped the replacement, how you fitted it from underneath (or whether you had to take the rear clam off), and which adhesive has lasted for you. We would also like to know whether the shroud does any heat shielding or is only cosmetic.

Send us details or photos →

Sources & credit

Written up from these owners' original posts. Thanks to everyone who contributed.

Last updated 2026-10-15